Top of Tassie on go-slow
Driving across the top of Tasmania, from Launceston to Burnie late on a Friday afternoon, there is a notable lack of inhabitants, but it's more than compensated for by the signs of life: two cheese factories, a chocolate factory and tasting shop, a Fuchsia Factory (don't ask me), Penguin Market and The Big Penguin. I suspect they don't actually sell penguins, but it is the street market at the town named Penguin.
Instead of stinky fast-food shops, there is soft mist on farm dams, a sunset of gold, rose and powder blue. There are busy milking sheds with black-and-white cows waiting for their turn, tiny towns with tiny white churches, arched bridges over little brooks and I learn that the town of La Trobe is the platypus capital of the world.
When we hit Devonport, the billboards start - McDonalds in 10km! Doesn't seem so important by now.